Last night's gardening session involved potting up my new sundews :). I also took some cuttings from them, they had a lot of damaged leaves, especially the forked sundew. I also took cuttings from the flytrap. The pinches of moss are in there to see if they grow faster in pure water, I need more moss to grow as well. The cape sundew is for cheese making experiments :). The crystals in the moss mark the largest of my baby threadleaf sundews. More info in alt.
My venus fly traps are just surviving π
I'm hoping it's just from the cooler winter dormancy (although I didn't put them unto full dormancy, since they're less than a year old).
Do you have any tips that maybe I haven't read or thought of?
@ExecutiveFunction404 I wish. I'm still fidgeting with best practices, but I that little hill she is on is to try to keep her feet get a little more circulation. They live further above the waterline than pots provide. I don't know if it works, I had two hospital stays that killed my plants before I found out. I will tell you Sarracenia plants are hardier, for sure.
@ExecutiveFunction404 When you trim those flower scapes, they can root just like a leaf peel. That way you can have more backups. Have you ever flushed the substrate? Like, pour a ton of pure water from the top while it rests in the sink, a little at a time, until you can put it in a dish and pour from the top again, then test the water for minerals. Or just pour a whole gallon if you don't have a mineral tester.
Oh...I'm still attempting with this flower cutting also, so maybe 10th time is the charm? π
@ExecutiveFunction404 There can still be mineral buildup from algae and decaying roots, that's one of the mistakes I made. First time I decided to test a clean water tray, I used a clean tray to catch the water and it was supposedly mineral free substrate & pure water. 225 ppm, that's more than my tapwater.
I once bought a small selection of flytraps, sundews, and pitcher plants and killed them all. Decided I would get more of the others if I kept a flytrap alive for a year. It took 10 years.
Thanks. You've convinced me to invest in a meter π The reviews for this soil had a few people who had tested it (or maybe it was the article that recommended it? Idr), so I assumed it would be good.
These have thankfully lasted longer than a year π€ but they're putting out teeny traps this winter, which is why I'm hoping it's due to a half-assed dormancy. Do you give any of yours the winter off?
@ExecutiveFunction404 I have a tiny one with my Scarlet Belle, both are either dying or dormant. I think there may be some new growth, but I'm not quite sure. I just recently pulled back the curtains so they get sunlight as well as my lights, so whatever is going to happen will happen soon.
You can get a free meter with a Zero filter kit. I have one of those. The most delicate of carnivores can handle up to 50 ppm in the water, and I flush when the substrate tests above 100.
I got into plants after we bought this house, so I didn't care about south facing windows much. The rooms that face south aren't very good rooms in the winter for most plants, so I put the full sun plants under lights further in the house. (yay for grow lights! π)
I sincerely appreciate your knowledge on the matter and sharing it with me π©·
@tippitiwichet
I've killed like 5 attempts to propagate from flower cuttings. I really need to get a warming mat to help with them, bc my heating pad turns off after 2 hours.
I haven't flushed, bc I use the specific sterile, unfertilized soil and distilled water only. Do you think it still requires a flush? I assumed that routine wouldn't allow minerals to build up bc where would they come from? Do you use regular water? I heard it's a death sentence for VFTs.
Thanks so much for the advice! π©·