It's been a minute since I did a reading roundup. #CoSoReaders What have you been reading lately? https://samanthadunawaybryant.blogspot.com/2022/11/my-reading-life-since-july.html
@Samanthabwriter just finished this. Barbarian Days A Surfing Life. Very enjoyable!
@Samanthabwriter yes, but it’s a lot more than that. It follows the authors journey from learning to surf in California and Hawaii, in the mid 60’s and follows him through time on different locations, waves, partners etc. to present day. During this journey, he touches on many socio political, economic, racial, physiological and cultural topics while exploring some of the best breaks in the world. The detail in the descriptions of waves and currents and breaks is poetic and artful. Great read.